Thread: [FIXED] GE side by side fridge side not cold

Jeff,

I have a GE Profile fridge that is not cold. Model #TNS22PRCBLBS, Ser # GA904789V.
I have shut it off and defrosted the whole thing. It worked after that for a while but now it is not cold again and I have frost on the bottom part of the freezer and some water in the bottom of fridge.
What do you suggest?

Originally Posted by louie'sgirl

Jeff,

I have a GE Profile fridge that is not cold. Model #TNS22PRCBLBS, Ser # GA904789V.
I have shut it off and defrosted the whole thing. It worked after that for a while but now it is not cold again and I have frost on the bottom part of the freezer and some water in the bottom of fridge.
What do you suggest?

You don't have the mother board either, just do the same as i advised David to do, if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, by all means call GE or a local appliance company in your area.

Jake

I am having the same problem w/ my GE fridge, model TBXK17K, except if I place my hand at the top of the fridge door/under the freezer door, I can feel cold air seeping out. So I am thinking it's the gasket on the freezer door. I am not a handy person in terms of electrical abilities, so this is probably the only repair that I could endeavor to do on my own. Thanks in advance.

Hi,

I would first check your bottom door hinge and shim to see if those are worn out and making the refrig. door sage.

Oh wait, you said freezer door gasket and not the refrig. door gasket?

Then check to see if that freezer door gasket is sealing to the cabinet properly when its closed, if its ripped or torn then you would need a new freezer door gasket.

Jake

Good posts. Helped me a few months ago when the freezer wouldn't get below 15 and fridge 40. Took it apart. Cleaned the coils best I could and put it back together without really knowing why it was working again. Problem back... Back of freezer has frost, fan runs normal, freezer is only moderately full. When I take it apart again, I am hoping to make a lasting repair. Thx

Originally Posted by engelbre

Good posts. Helped me a few months ago when the freezer wouldn't get below 15 and fridge 40. Took it apart. Cleaned the coils best I could and put it back together without really knowing why it was working again. Problem back... Back of freezer has frost, fan runs normal, freezer is only moderately full. When I take it apart again, I am hoping to make a lasting repair. Thx

Thanks, If your back panel on your freezer has frost build-up, then you have a defrost part out.

This link is a good place to start:
http://www.applianceaid.com/frig_notcold.html#ff

A volt/ohm meter is good to have to test the parts.

Jake

Hi y'all, I'm new to the forum, and don't mean to hijack this thread, I have the problem here mentioned, I'm trying to fix my fridge, but I need help IDing my fridge to get/verify the right parts!
I bough it less than 3 years ago from one of these places that sell chaper, reconditioned units, and they removed any and all ID tags, no S/N, P/N, etc. It's worked fine until now, problem as described earlier...

Now, I've done some homework and this is what I CAN tell:
Control board (back, right) numbers: EBX1005G01 Rev.M GEA151, 200D2260G008
Defrost thermostat: T-O-D 37TV31 31250 467326P055 L140-30F JO244
The fride is smaller than most, 33" 1/2 x 66" (without hinges) x 30 deep (without handles)
It has the water, ice, crused ice dispenser and light button on the freezer door, I'm posting a link to some pics, you can see the thermostat and thermistor in one pic.

I went to my local appliance repair guy, and he sold me thermistor wr55x10025, which looks different from the exisiting one, and thermostat L50-20F, which is way off from what I currently have. So before I install them, I need to hear from the pros, thanx a million...

http://picasaweb.google.com/utomik/Fridge

Hi,

Yea, without the model# its going to be almost impossible to find the correct parts.

I saw the photos of your evaporator coil, I usually find when its that frosted up, the defrost heater is bad, but you would need an ohm meter to confirm this or you could defrost the evap. coil and remove the heater assembly and take it to your local appliance parts store, they can usually ohm it out there for you and match it up with a new one.

Jake

Hi Jake,

I understand what you're saying, I was just hoping that somebody could use the pics and info to ID it, I'm sure there's a catalogue or somenthing out there listing manufacturer models...

I did check resistance on the blue wire (grey connector) and orange (pin 9 on J7) from the control board. The reading was 26.8 ohms, which is OK I guess, and that indicates that the defrost heater and term. thermostat are good? Correct me if I'm wrong, I got this info from an appliance repair book.

Since there's only one thermistor, not two, I think I will start by replacing it, and we'll see. I'm not sure how the logic on the board uses the thermistor, but the resitance on it was off the chart (3.44 k ohms), although I could not tell what temp. the fridge was at (I think I'll get me a laser thermometer), it should not have been that far off.

Thanx.