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June 4th, 2009, 07:18 PM
#1
[FIXED] Turbidity sensor woes?? Maytag Quiet Series 300
Okay, so I have a toddler and am only marginally employed, therefore I 1) need my dishwasher and 2) need to try and fix it myself.
I can no longer get my Maytag Quiet Series 300 dishwasher to start. I have powered it down and restarted it, and it is still unresponsive. It is 3 years old and out of warranty.
I've done some research and I think from the symptoms, won't start, auto clean light comes on when pressed and then flickers and goes off, and no other buttons do anything, that I need a new turbidity sensor.
Where is it located? How hard is it to replace? Can I bypass it as I've never once used the autoclean function? If no where can I buy a new part?
Thanks! I'm delighted to participate in this forum, I've read your advice and used it in the past. Keep up the great work!
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June 4th, 2009, 09:42 PM
#2
Hi Richard,
We would need your complete model# of your dishwasher, the model# tag is located inside the door on the top or side frame inside.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
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June 6th, 2009, 05:28 PM
#3
???
It isn't very clear, the numbers listed are
MDBH955AWW
32904517JG
E39927 LR111720
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June 7th, 2009, 12:09 AM
#4
Thanks,
Your model# is MDBH955AWW
Here's the tech. data sheet on it, run the manual function test and field service test:
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16026393.pdf
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
ApplianceBlog Classifieds
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June 7th, 2009, 06:30 PM
#5
Okay I could not get it to respond to the manual function test or the field service test. The only keys that will light up at all are the auto clean and the high temp wash which will flicker occasionally if pushed.
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June 8th, 2009, 12:24 AM
#6
Ok, then its possibly your control panel assembly thats bad.
Here's the one for your model you can order:
Manufacturer part number 6-920245 is RepairClinic item number 1469762
6-920245
Its fairly easy to install, just remove the screws that hold it to the inner door liner, and install it(comes with the ribbon cable). If anything mounts to it from the inside just take it from the old one and put it exactly in the same place as the new one.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
ApplianceBlog Classifieds
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June 8th, 2009, 04:44 AM
#7
Great! Okay, last question, hopefully, and I preface this by saying, I completely understand that you can't give exacting answers without actually seeing the situation first hand as I might be doing a poor job of describing the symptom. That is a fairly expensive part, what are the chances that it is the circuit board or turbitity sensor? I'd hate to drop $200.00 and then find out that that wasn't actually the problem.
Thank you for all your help I really appreciate it.
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June 8th, 2009, 09:22 AM
#8
From my experience on these, and what you have described, everything is pointing to the control panel. I have replaced many on this model for this same issue.
We have a special program here:
If you purchase parts from our links here and you install them and it doesn't fix the problem, you have a 30 day full refund when you return them.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
ApplianceBlog Classifieds
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June 15th, 2009, 07:48 PM
#9
Thanks!
Worked like a champ! It seems like these machines are designed to fail, the way they vent the steam causes condensation in the door which led to the corrosion of the ribbon cable. Also $200 for that part which clearly cost $2 to make is annoying, but all that grousing aside, I am delighted to not have to rip up my kitchen to extricate the broken dishwasher. Thank you so much for all of your help!
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June 15th, 2009, 11:23 PM
#10
Excellent Richard, good job fixing it.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
ApplianceBlog Classifieds
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September 1st, 2009, 11:34 AM
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